Across our three sites, we have the facilities to test:
Large vehicles and Class 7 MOTs can only be undertaken at our Cranleigh and Gatwick sites, where we have the appropriate equipment for testing vehicles of this size.
Class 4 MOTs cover cars including taxis and private hire vehicles (up to 8 passenger seats). We can perform class 4 MOTs at each of our sites.
Our class 4 MOTs are £54.85
MOT tests for campervans can be performed at all of our sites, depending on the vehicle size. The larger campervans and motorhomes will need to go to either our Cranleigh or Gatwick site due to the larger ramp size required.
Our campervan MOTs are £54.85
Class 5 MOTs are for private passenger vehicles with 13 or more seatbelts, like minibuses, for example. Due to the larger ramp size required, we can only perform class 5 MOTs at our Cranleigh and Gatwick sites.
Our class 5 MOTs are £59.55
Class 7 MOTs cover goods vehicles over 3,000kg GW. Due to the larger ramp size required, we can only perform class 7 MOTs at our Cranleigh and Gatwick sites.
Our class 7 MOTs are £58.60
Class 1 and 2 MOTs cover motorcycles. Class 1 includes motorbikes with an engine size up to 200cc, and class 2 includes motorbikes with an engine size over 200cc.
Motorbike MOTs can only be performed at our Gatwick site.
Our class 1 & 2 MOTs are £29.65
Class 1 & 2 motorcycle MOTs take on average 25 minutes, and all other MOTs should take approximately 40 minutes.
Yes, absolutely! You are more than welcome to wait on site in our waiting area while we complete your MOT.
Your front, rear, fog, brake, registration plate and indicator lights, and rear reflectors must all be in good condition, not obscured, and positioned correctly.
All lights must show the correct colour (having a slight blue tinge to your headlights is classed as acceptable as long as the predominant colour is white), they must illuminate with a single operation of the switch, and must not be affected by any of the other lights.
Lights that are paired, such as headlights and brake lights, must be the same, giving off the same colour, size, and shape of light.
Your headlight aim for both full beam and dipped beam should be below the horizon to ensure it doesn’t dazzle other drivers.
Your horn must give off a continuous, uniform note and must be loud enough to be heard by nearby road users.
Your battery must be securely in place and must not be showing any sign of leaking electrolytes.
The wiring must be secure and not damaged at any point where it may be likely to detach or short-circuit.
If you have a tow bar on your car, this needs to be correctly connected to ensure it can connect with your brake lights. The tow bar must also be a good condition.
The MOT tester will check that the steering wheel is in good condition and is secure. They do this by pushing the steering wheel in different directions and checking for signs of damage and wear, and tear.
When checking suspension components and shock absorbers, the testers are looking for excessive damage, including corrosion, distortion, and fractures.
Did you know that almost 10% of MOT tests are failed due to brake issues? Your pedals, brakes and levers should all be in good condition with all the relevant lights working. The tester will then do a brake performance test to check brake efficiency.
Firstly, your tyres must be suitable for your vehicle. The tread depth must be at least 1.6mm, and the MOT tester will ensure that there are no cuts larger than 25mm, as well as check for bulges, lumps, tears, tread separation, or exposure of the cord.
If your vehicle uses run-flat tyres, then the warning light must be in full working order.
It isn’t necessary, but it is recommended to plug in all your seatbelts before bringing your vehicle in for MOT. This allows you to see whether any of the buckles are having trouble connecting before the test begins, giving you time to get any issues repaired.
The tester will need to ensure that all of the seatbelts, including the attachment and adjustment fittings, are the correct length and are all in working order. You can test your seatbelts at home by simply giving them a quick, sharp tug – you should be able to feel the resistance. If not, get in touch with us straight away!
Now it’s time to give the car’s body a once-over. The tester will be inspecting the full body, including the chassis, engine mountings, seats, bonnet, doors and boot. Each of these areas must not show excessive signs of corrosion and absolutely must not have any sharp edges that could cause injury.
You must clearly display your registration plate at the front and rear of your car. They must be clean, clear, and legible enough for someone to read from 20 metres away. On top of that, the characters on the plate must be easily distinguished, and the spacing must be as follows: AB12 CDE.
The VIN is the Vehicle Identification Number that must be displayed on all vehicles. Don’t worry if you have never seen this before – they are sometimes quite subtle. You can usually find your VIN on the inside of a door or on the VIN plate.
Your Speedometer must be securely fitted and it must have a slight glow coming through to illuminate the dial. You won’t fail your MOT if the glass is cracked, as long as you can still read the speed.
The exhaust system needs to be secure and without any leaks. If when your car was first made, it came with a catalytic converter, it must still be there.
If you have noticed any strange rattling or unknown noises coming from your exhaust system while your car is running, you should let the garage know, as there may be an issue that needs addressing before you have your MOT test.
Your vehicle gives off carbon monoxide and hydrocarbon emissions and these must fall within the legal limit. The MOT tester will use a gas analyser probe to test the smoke being emitted from the exhaust. They will also check to see whether there is an excess of smoke being emitted – this could end in an MOT failure.
You can support the emissions test by topping up your engine oil and fuel levels before the test.
You must have a clear view of the road whilst driving. Both your rearview and wing mirrors must be secure and offer adequate views of the side and rear of the vehicle. Your wipers and washer fluid must be able to clear enough of the windscreen to provide the driver with an acceptable view of the road.
We advise checking for cracks or damage to your mirrors that lower visibility and getting these fixed before your MOT test is due. You can also give your wipers a quick check-over to ensure they don’t have any signs of damage.
The section of the windscreen that is directly in front of the driver shouldn’t contain any damage or obstruction to their view that is larger than 10mm. Outside of this area, but still within the swept area of the windscreen, damage and obstructions aren’t allowed to be any larger than 40mm.
If you are lucky enough to have a brand-new vehicle, you can relax as you don’t need an MOT test until your car turns 3 years old. Your first test will need to be booked for the date of your car’s registration, and then it will need to be retested every year on the anniversary of its last test.
If your car is already older than 3 years, then you need to get an MOT every year.
You can book your MOT test here up to a month (minus a day) before it is due and still keep the original renewal date. For example, if your MOT is due on the 15th of June, you can book your MOT test for the 16th of May and keep the same renewal date.
If you are unsure when your MOT is due, don’t worry. It’s easy to check! Just go to the Direct.gov website where it will ask you for your registration number. Type this in, check the details to make sure it is the right vehicle and voilà! This is a handy tool to have, as it will also tell you when your vehicle tax expires.
If you are a CCM customer, we can send you email and text reminders for when your MOT is due, taking all the worry off your shoulders.
In simple terms, no. The only time you are allowed to drive your vehicle without a valid MOT certificate is if you are driving the vehicle to an already booked MOT test. If your tax has also expired, you won’t be able to renew your vehicle tax without an MOT.
If you don’t plan on driving your vehicle you will need to keep it off the road and declare it as SORN (Statutory Off Road Notification). Remember, the vehicle needs to be physically off the road or you can be landed with a hefty fine.
There are a couple of quick fixes that you can do to not only make your vehicle more likely to pass but also to make the test easier and quicker for the tester to perform.
A basic nicety if you are taking your car to a garage. We don’t need it to be sparkling, but testing a car that is filled with empty takeaway containers and the like is never an enjoyable experience. A tester can refuse to complete the MOT if the car is in a real state. Our tips – just remove anything that doesn’t need to be there. This includes your boot space too!
Number plate visibility is checked, so if you have the time, give these a quick wipedown so your registration can be easily read
How are your windscreen wipers? Any tears will cause a failure. You can easily get these replaced before your test.
Do all your lights work? Park in front of a window or ask a friend to help you check each one.
Check your tyre tread. You can do this without any tools and just a 20p coin. Place the coin into the tread groove in the tyre. If you can’t see the outer band on the coin, you’re above the minimum 1.6mm requirement. If the coin is still visible, you need to urgently see a tyre specialist to get them replaced.
Refresh all levels under the bonnet. Checking you have enough oil and screenwash is super easy, and something we can all do. If you are unsure which oils or fluids you need, you can speak to our team or bring your vehicle in and we’ll do it for you.
Does the horn work? The easiest and quickest check, give the horn a little toot to make sure it is still working.
Do you have any cracks in your mirrors, or are any of them loose and wobbly? Mirrors need to be secure so that you can use them properly.
The VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) in your V5C logbook should always match what is on your car’s bodywork. These are usually printed from the outside at the bottom of the windshield on the driver’s side or on the door sill. This printed VIN must be legible. If there is anything disrupting the view, be sure to wipe this away.
It is always best to check with the DVSA if you are not sure whether your vehicle requires an MOT.
Generally, the only time that a car is exempt from getting an MOT is if the car is under 3 years old or over 40 years old, unless it has had any substantial changes.
There are three different categories for defects – dangerous, major and minor. If you have a dangerous or major defect, that is an automatic fail. You are not able to drive your car until the issue has been fixed. An example of a dangerous defect is if your brake lights are not working.
You can pass your MOT with minor faults, although these should be looked into and repaired. Minor defects are issues that won’t fail the MOT but should be looked into. A vehicle can have multiple minor defects and still pass its MOT.
At CCM, we can repair MOT failures on-site and will be able to provide you with an accurate quote straight away for the work needed. However, you do have a few options when it comes to repairs.
Firstly, you can keep your car in the same garage and ask them to do the repairs. This is definitely the easiest one as if the repairs are relatively quick to fix, your car could then be retested the same day.
You can also choose to take your car to another garage to get the repairs done if you wish.
MOT retests are usually free; however, if you take the car away from the first garage and don’t return it within 10 days, they will need to charge you the full price of an MOT for the retest.
You could choose to have the retest done at the second garage, but they will also need to charge for a full MOT, as technically, this is the first MOT they are doing on this car.
Yes, but only if your current MOT certificate hasn’t expired. You could drive to another garage to get your repairs done, but as soon as your current MOT certificate expires your vehicle won’t be road-legal. If you continue to drive your vehicle without a passed MOT you can get into trouble.
Police use ANPR which can see if any car has tax, MOT and insurance. If you don’t have a valid MOT, you can be prosecuted for this.
A minor defect is a defect that is not severe enough to fail the test but should be repaired soon.
Advisories highlight areas that are not yet defective but are usually a ‘wear and tear’ item, so will soon become defective and need replacing. This could be something like the tyre tread is getting close to the minimum tread depth. You won’t fail the MOT, but this should be looked into as it will get worse over time.
If your MOT certificate has expired, you aren’t legally allowed to drive your vehicle on the road, and being caught without an MOT could land you with a hefty fine. Not only this, but driving without an MOT will invalidate your insurance policy so if you were to have an incident, your insurers won’t cover you.
If you are taking your vehicle for its first-ever MOT, or its first MOT since you have changed the registration plates, you will need to make sure you have your car’s V5C logbook with you.
For any other MOT it’s easy, just bring your car! You can take your previous MOT certificate with you if you wish; however, all MOT records are now stored on an online database so the garage will be able to access this if they need to.
A vehicle service is a series of scheduled maintenance checks and procedures performed on a car to ensure it remains in good working order. It typically involves checking and replacing fluids (like oil), filters, and inspecting key components such as brakes, tires, and the engine.
Regular servicing is important for several reasons:
It identifies potential issues with critical components like brakes and steering before they become dangerous failures.
By replacing worn parts and fluids, a service prevents long-term damage and can extend the lifespan of your vehicle.
A well-maintained car runs more efficiently, leading to better fuel economy and lower running costs.
A full service history proves to potential buyers that the vehicle has been well-cared for, which can significantly increase its resale value.
Many manufacturer warranties are only valid if the vehicle is serviced according to the specified schedule.
In the UK, vehicle servicing is typically categorised into three main levels: Interim, Full, and Major. These services are designed to provide a tiered approach to maintenance, with each level building upon the last.
Interim Service
A basic, mid-point check for high-mileage drivers. It typically includes an oil and filter change and a safety check of key components like brakes and tyres.
Full Service
A comprehensive annual service that includes all interim checks plus a more in-depth inspection and replacement of a wider range of parts (e.g., air filter, spark plugs).
Major Service
The most extensive service, usually recommended every two years. It includes everything from a full service, plus the replacement of parts with a longer lifespan, such as brake fluid and cabin filters.
Here is a breakdown of what a typical service includes for each level:
This is a basic, mid-point check designed for high-mileage drivers or as a top-up between full services. It's a quick and essential check to ensure your vehicle is safe and running efficiently.
This is a more comprehensive annual check that includes everything in an interim service, plus a more in-depth inspection of your vehicle's major components.
Generally includes all items from the Interim Service, plus:
This is the most comprehensive service, often recommended every two years. It includes all the checks from a Full Service, plus the replacement of parts that typically have a longer lifespan but are critical for your vehicle's health.
Generally includes all items from the Interim and Full Service, plus:
The specific items in any service can vary slightly depending on the garage and the vehicle manufacturer's recommendations. Always check your car's service book or with the garage for the exact schedule.
Most modern cars only need servicing once a year or 12,000 miles (whichever comes first), but older cars may require a service up to every 6 months.
Always refer to your vehicle's owner's manual for the official service schedule. This is often based on time (e.g., every 12 months) or mileage (e.g., every 12,000 miles), whichever comes first.
If you are a high-mileage driver, a frequent interim service (every 6 months or 6,000 miles) is a good idea to keep your vehicle running smoothly.
Older cars may require more frequent or more detailed checks.
Essentially, an MOT is a legal check, while a service is a maintenance procedure. It's highly recommended to have a service performed before your MOT, as it will often identify issues that would cause an MOT failure.
A legal requirement for vehicles over three years old. It is an annual test to ensure your car meets the minimum safety and environmental standards to be driven on public roads. It's a pass/fail test and does not involve the replacement of parts or fluids.
This is a comprehensive maintenance check recommended by your car's manufacturer. It involves checks, adjustments, and the replacement of wear-and-tear items (e.g., oil, filters, spark plugs) to keep your car running reliably and efficiently.
No, under European law (specifically the "Block Exemption Regulation"), you have the "right to choose" where your vehicle is serviced. As long as the independent garage uses manufacturer-approved parts and follows the manufacturer's service schedule, your warranty will remain valid.
Here at CCM we only use manufacturer-approved parts from tier one suppliers.
There are a few ways to check your car's service history:
A physical book where garages stamp and sign after each service.
Keep all paperwork from past services.
Many modern cars now have a digital record of their service history, which can be accessed by an authorised garage.
To make the service as efficient as possible, it's helpful to:
This allows technicians to easily access the spare tyre and other components.
Technicians need this to remove your wheels for checks.
This gives the garage a record of your vehicle's history and helps them determine which service is most appropriate.
At CCM, we custom-build each service specifically to meet your car’s current needs. By assessing your vehicle’s current mileage and age, we determine exactly what maintenance is required, following the manufacturer’s recommendations. This tailored approach ensures that your car receives the precise care it needs, enhancing its performance and longevity.
Because we provide bespoke servicing based on your vehicle’s specific requirements, we don’t have a one-size-fits-all pricing model. This ensures you only pay for the services your car genuinely needs, making our approach both economical and effective.
Following the manufacturer's schedule and recommendations, the cost of a vehicle service can range significantly.
Luxury or performance brands like BMW, Audi, or Mercedes-Benz will almost always be more expensive to service due to the cost of specialist parts and labor. More common cars like a Vauxhall Corsa or Ford Focus are typically at the lower end of the price spectrum.
Cars with larger engines often require more oil and more expensive parts, which increases the service cost.
Service prices can fluctuate based on geography. Garages in cities and the South East of England generally have higher labor costs than those in other regions.
Main dealers are almost always the most expensive option, while independent garages can often offer more competitive prices.
The prices above are for the service itself. If the technician identifies any issues that require additional repairs or replacement parts (e.g., new brake pads), you will be charged extra.
Generally, we advise against waiting on-site while we complete your vehicle's service, as the time needed to complete a service can range between one to two hours.
A vehicle service can range from one to two hours, depending on the scale and complexity of the manufacturer's schedule.
When you bring your vehicle in, our experienced technicians will conduct a full diagnostic investigation. We'll use a combination of expert knowledge, physical inspections, and modern diagnostic tools to accurately identify the problem.
Once the issue has been pinpointed, we will provide you with a clear and detailed explanation of the repair needed, along with a transparent breakdown of the costs. We will not proceed with any repair work until we have your full approval.
Repair costs are based on two main factors:
This is the cost of the new parts required for the repair. We always use high-quality, genuine, or manufacturer-approved parts.
This is the time it takes for our experienced technicians to complete the work, charged at an hourly rate.
We will provide you with a detailed estimate that includes both parts and labour costs, so you know exactly what you're paying for.
We specialise in brands including Land Rover, Jaguar, Volkswagen, BMW, Audi, Mercedes-Benz, Peugeot, Citroen, Toyota, and Lexus. We can, however, diagnose, investigate, and repair, replace, or refurbish most mechanical parts across a wide range of vehicle makes and models, including:
The time required for a repair depends on the complexity of the issue and the availability of parts. When we provide you with a quote, we will also give you an estimated timeframe for completion. We'll do our best to keep you updated throughout the process, so you're always aware of the status of your vehicle.
Some of the most common types of engine repair work we undertake are:
These are routine fixes or replacements that are often part of a standard service, but if neglected, they can lead to more significant problems.
Spark plugs are crucial for igniting the air-fuel mixture. Over time, they wear out, leading to misfires, reduced power, and poor fuel efficiency.
This is a fundamental maintenance task that prevents engine wear by ensuring proper lubrication and removing contaminants.
A clogged air filter restricts airflow to the engine, reducing performance and fuel economy.
These belts are vital for the engine's operation. A worn or broken timing belt can cause catastrophic engine damage.
Leaks from gaskets, seals, or hoses can cause a loss of essential fluids like engine oil, coolant, or transmission fluid, leading to overheating or damage.
A faulty sensor can cause the "check engine" light to come on and affect the engine's performance and emissions.
The cooling system is essential for preventing the engine from overheating. Repairs in this area are common and critical.
Over time, coolant can become contaminated and lose its effectiveness. Flushing the system and adding new coolant maintains proper temperature regulation.
A damaged or blocked radiator can't dissipate heat effectively, leading to overheating.
A faulty thermostat can get stuck open or closed, preventing the engine from reaching or maintaining its optimal operating temperature.
These repairs address issues related to the delivery of fuel to the engine.
A failing fuel pump can cause a car to have trouble starting, stall, or experience a loss of power.
A clogged fuel filter can restrict fuel flow, leading to poor engine performance.
Dirty or clogged fuel injectors can cause misfires and a drop in fuel efficiency.
These are complex, expensive, and labor-intensive repairs that often involve disassembling the engine.
The head gasket seals the cylinder head to the engine block. A blown head gasket can lead to overheating, coolant leaks, and engine oil contamination. This is a very common but costly repair.
This involves disassembling the engine to inspect, clean, and replace worn components like pistons, piston rings, and bearings. An engine rebuild restores the engine to good working condition and is an alternative to a full replacement.
In cases of severe damage (e.g., a seized engine or a cracked engine block), it may be more cost-effective to replace the entire engine with a new, rebuilt, or used one.
Issues like a cracked or warped cylinder head require machining and repair to ensure a proper seal.
CCM offers a full gearbox repair service for all makes and models. Our staff across the group has much experience with automatic gearboxes, going back over 50 years. From a simple 3-speed auto to today’s electronically managed gearboxes, and complex DSG repairs we can help. Be it a simple oil service using the latest flushing equipment, up to full gearbox reconditioning – we have the staff and expertise to help.
A vehicle's gearbox, or transmission, is a crucial component that transfers power from the engine to the wheels. It controls the vehicle's speed and torque. There are several different types of gearboxes, each with its own set of common issues and symptoms.
Manual transmissions require the driver to manually change gears using a clutch pedal and a gear stick. They offer more control and can be more engaging to drive.
This can feel like the gear stick is stiff or won't engage a gear. It may be caused by low transmission fluid, worn synchronizers, or a misaligned shift linkage.
If you press the accelerator and the engine revs high but the car doesn't accelerate proportionally, your clutch may be worn out. It feels like a loss of power.
You may hear a grinding noise when shifting gears. This often indicates worn-out synchronizers, which are parts that help match the speed of the gears for a smooth shift.
A burning smell, similar to burnt toast or rubber, is a classic sign of an overheating or slipping clutch.
Minor issues like a grinding noise or difficult shifting can sometimes be fixed by topping up or changing the gearbox fluid. More serious problems, like a slipping clutch, require a clutch replacement. In some cases, a full gearbox rebuild may be needed to replace worn-out internal components.
Automatic transmissions shift gears for the driver without the need for a clutch pedal. They are generally easier and more convenient for city driving.
The car may hesitate before shifting into drive or reverse, or you may feel a sudden, jarring jolt when the gears change. This can be caused by low or degraded transmission fluid, or a problem with the internal computer system (TCM).
The vehicle may slip out of gear while driving, or the engine may rev without any power being transferred to the wheels. This is often caused by low fluid levels or worn-out internal components.
Unusual noises coming from the gearbox can be a sign of internal damage, such as worn bearings or a failing torque converter.
A puddle of red or brown fluid under the car can indicate a transmission fluid leak from a worn seal or gasket.
Many automatic transmission problems can be resolved with a fluid and filter change, which helps to improve lubrication and smooth out shifting. Leaks are fixed by replacing the seals or gaskets. However, a faulty torque converter or a problem with the internal valve body may require a full transmission rebuild or replacement, which is a very expensive repair.
This type of automatic gearbox uses a pulley system instead of fixed gears, allowing for an infinite number of gear ratios. Drivers may notice a "rubber band" effect during acceleration where the engine sounds like it's droning at a constant high RPM. Common issues include a loss of power, shuddering, and whining noises, which can be caused by a failing belt or fluid issues.
A DCT is an automatic transmission that uses two clutches for faster and smoother shifts. While very efficient, they can be prone to issues like juddering, rough shifting, or a complete loss of drive, often due to a failing mechatronics unit or a software fault.
Over time, automatic gearbox oil degrades, leading to blockages and slipping gears. Regular flushing removes old oil and contaminants, replacing them with fresh oil and new filters. This process, therefore, maintains optimal gearbox performance. We recommend flushing your gearbox around every 60,000 miles or so. If you’re unsure, give us a call, and we can check what your vehicle manufacturer recommends for your vehicle age and mileage.
Simply put, yes, we can get to the bottom of most vehicle issues through a process of diagnosis and investigation. This process can take time to ensure the technician finds the root cause of your vehicle's issues, rather than just replacing a part that won't solve the problem.
Vehicle fault diagnosis is a systematic process that technicians follow to pinpoint the root cause of a problem. It's much more than simply plugging in a scanner; it's a methodical approach that uses a combination of information gathering, visual inspection, and advanced testing.
Here is a breakdown of the key steps a technician goes through to diagnose and investigate issues with a vehicle:
The diagnosis begins before the bonnet is even lifted. The first and most crucial step is to talk to the driver to understand the full context of the problem.
The technician will ask you detailed questions to gather as much information as possible. Depending on the issue, you may also be provided with a questionnaire to complete and return prior to your booking. Questions can include:
When did the issue start?
Does it happen all the time or only under specific conditions (e.g., when the engine is cold, at a certain speed, or in wet weather)?
What exactly is the driver experiencing (e.g., a strange noise, a warning light, a loss of power, a burning smell)?
The technician will then try to replicate the problem. This might involve a road test or running the engine in the workshop to confirm the symptoms described by the customer. If a fault cannot be verified, it can't be fixed.
This is where the physical investigation begins. The technician performs a series of basic checks to rule out simple or obvious problems.
They will conduct a thorough visual inspection of the vehicle, looking for anything out of place. This includes checking for:
Obvious leaks (oil, coolant, brake fluid).
Worn or cracked belts and hoses.
Corrosion on electrical connectors or battery terminals.
Signs of physical damage or disconnected components.
All essential fluids are checked to ensure they are at the correct level and are not contaminated.
They will note any warning lights on the dashboard. This is a key starting point for the diagnostic process.
Modern vehicles are equipped with an On-Board Diagnostics (OBD-II) system, which stores fault codes whenever a problem is detected. This is a critical step in the process.
The technician will connect a professional diagnostic scanner to the vehicle's OBD-II port.
The scanner reads any stored or pending codes. These codes are a starting point, not a definitive answer. For example, a code for an "oxygen sensor circuit malfunction" doesn't mean the sensor is bad; it means there's a problem within the circuit that the sensor is a part of.
The technician will also look at live data from the vehicle's sensors, such as engine temperature, RPM, fuel pressure, and air flow. This can provide clues to a problem that hasn't yet triggered a fault code.
With the information from the customer, the visual checks, and the scan tool, the technician now has a set of clues. This is where their expertise comes in.
They will refer to manufacturer-specific technical bulletins (TSBs), wiring diagrams, and service manuals to understand how the system is supposed to work and to find common issues associated with the specific vehicle model.
Based on all the evidence, the technician will form a theory about the root cause of the problem. For example, if a car is misfiring and the scan tool shows a code for a coil pack on cylinder 3, the hypothesis is that the coil pack is faulty.
This is the most critical stage. Instead of simply replacing the part the fault code points to, a good technician will perform targeted tests to confirm their theory.
They will use tools like a digital multimeter or an oscilloscope to check voltage, resistance, and continuity in the relevant electrical circuits.
They may perform tests on the suspect component. For example, they might use a compression tester to check for an engine head gasket leak or a vacuum gauge to check for a clogged catalytic converter.
If a vacuum or intake leak is suspected, they may use a smoke machine to visually see where the air is escaping from the system.
Only after the root cause has been proven through a series of tests will the technician proceed with the repair.
The technician replaces the faulty component, repairs the wiring, or performs the necessary maintenance.
All stored fault codes are cleared from the vehicle's computer.
The final step is to confirm that the repair has been successful. This often involves another road test under the same conditions that triggered the initial fault. They will also re-check for new fault codes and confirm that all systems are operating as expected. This final verification ensures the customer's original concern has been fully resolved.
Our priority is to get your vehicle back on the road safely and reliably. If our technicians discover an additional issue during a repair, we will stop work and contact you immediately. We will explain the new problem, its importance, and provide a revised quote for the extra work. We will only proceed with your explicit permission.
We're happy to discuss any concerns you have and provide you with a detailed breakdown of our findings so you can get a second opinion if you wish.
This is because we cannot guarantee the quality, condition, or suitability of the parts, which would invalidate our repair warranty and could compromise your vehicle's safety.
We accept most major debit and credit cards (excluding American Express), as well as direct bank transfers. Full payment is required upon or before collecting your vehicle. We do not offer credit facilities or deferred payment options.
If you have any other questions, please don't hesitate to give us a call or send us a message. We're always here to help.
Unfortunately, we do not offer a call-out or recovery service, but if you are local to one of our sites, give us a call and we'll see if we have a technician available to send out to you.
Unfortunately, we do not offer a recovery service, but we can arrange a third party to recover you to one of our sites. This will be at an additional charge at the rates of the third-party provider.
Yes, at our CCM Gatwick site, we have skilled technicians who can weld cracked alloys, and straighten buckled wheels.
Yes absolutely, as well as routine servicing and repairs, we are able to provide you with a secure, locked location for campervan storage. We have found this to be incredibly helpful to owners with limited space at home to store their vehicles. This is also a great way to put your mind at ease knowing that your pride and joy isn’t at risk of theft or damage.
When you leave your vehicle with us, if you let us know when you will be ‘checking out’ we can offer you a free vehicle health check to ensure that everything is ready for your next adventure. This includes checking all fluids are topped up, tyres are pumped, your battery is healthy and more.
You can pre-book your MOT and service for when it’s due and we’ll take payment over the phone so you don’t even have to leave your home! If you have any campervan repair work that needs actioning whilst your campervan is with us we can help with that too. Just make sure to explain everything you need to our team, and then we will put together a quote for you to review. Once you are happy with this, let us know and we can get the repair work completed for you.
Storage costs are calculated by the length of the vehicle.
Up to 5 metres £50 p/m + VAT
Up to 6 metres £55 p/m + VAT
Up to 7 metres £65p/m + VAT
Over 7 metres £75p/m + VAT
Please note:
– We will need your keys or a spare set in case we need to move your camper whilst with us
– Collections must be on weekdays and we require at least 24 hour’s notice before collection
– On drop-off, we must receive the full payment for the campervan storage booking
– Spaces are limited, and will be sold on a first come first serve basis
For more information, or to receive a personalised quote, please contact info@ccmselfstorage.co.uk to discuss your needs.
Yes, we specialise in the servicing, repair and maintenance of electric vehicles. It’s a common misconception that only the dealer or the dealer brand that you bought your Electric Vehicle from can fix it but that’s not the case.
Our highly skilled team at CCM is expertly trained to handle all types of vehicles, delivering exceptional service and care for every customer. Our workshops are tooled with all the equipment we need to maintain and service your EV.
Yes,
We specialise in professional cylinder head skimming services and pressure testing, helping you get back on the road sooner.
This service is essential for overheating engines that cause the cylinder head to warp. Our process resurfaces the head, ensuring a proper seal and preventing future gasket failures. Our in-house team can also address corroded or pitted aluminium heads by performing welding repairs before skimming.
Please note, that we do not have facilities for cast iron heads.
In a modern engine, the tolerance of the cylinder head should be less than around 75 microns (or 3 thou in old money). This fine tolerance is because the head gaskets used in modern engines are usually multi-layered steel gaskets, which are much thinner than older-style head gaskets and require much greater accuracy.
If required, we can deal with valve removal, fitting new valve stem oil seals and lapping of valves. Extra work is charged at our standard workshop rate.
Yes, at CCM, we are experienced in these complex jobs. We only ever use genuine parts and high-quality oils.
Having replaced a large number of these wet belts, we provide a cost-effective and faster alternative to main dealers. With quick turnaround times, expert technicians, and a FREE replacement vehicle while yours is in for repairs.
Manufacturer service schedules often suggest that a wet belt should last over five years or 100,000 miles. However, real-world experiences tell a different story. We have seen our fair share of vehicles urgently needing repair after their wet belts have failed.
Shockingly, many of these wet belts fail within three years and as little as 30,000 miles. We suggest:
Yes, we can perform four-wheel alignment on all makes and models. Whether you drive a Skoda, BMW or campervan, we are able to get the job done for you.
It doesn’t matter to us whether you have extensive damage that needs urgent repair, or if you just want us to check over your wheel alignment. This is a routine job for us so you can rest assured that we know exactly what we are doing.
Four wheel alignment ensures the direction and angle of each wheel is matching what the car manufacturer has recommended. There are two different settings to check – the toe and camber.
Toe relates to the space between the front and the back of each tyre. Most cars have the wheels ever so slightly turned in, around 0.05°. This allows the wheels to turn as efficiently as possible without the tyres dragging on the road. Toe-in means that the front of the tyres are closer to each other than the rear of the same tyres. Toe-out means that the rear of each tyre is closer to each other than the front.
Camber is about the angle your tyres are sitting at and it measures the degree of tyre tilt. A positive camber is when the top of the wheel leans out from the centre. A negative camber is the opposite so when the wheel is leaning into the centre. Usually, you can expect to see a camber of 0.5 – 2°.
A DSG, which stands for Direct Shift Gearbox, is a type of electronically controlled automatic transmission that uses a dual-clutch system. It was pioneered by the Volkswagen Group and is a popular option in many of their vehicles, as well as cars from other manufacturers.
Unlike a traditional manual gearbox, which has one clutch, or a conventional automatic, which uses a torque converter, a DSG has two clutches. These clutches work together to provide incredibly fast and smooth gear changes.
Clutch 1: Manages the odd-numbered gears (1, 3, 5, etc.)
The DSG is essentially a manual gearbox with a computer and two clutches doing the work for you. It provides the performance and efficiency benefits of a manual without the need for a clutch pedal.
A DSG is more advanced than a conventional automatic transmission, which uses a torque converter to transfer power. This makes the DSG more efficient and gives it faster gear changes.
Yes, complimentary guest wifi is available at all our sites.
Yes, tea, coffee and water are available at all our sites.
Absolutely!
All of our sites have WC toilet facilities for you to use at your convenience. 🚽
Our Gatwick and Ewhurst sites have ample parking available, just follow the signs or give our friendly front-of-house service advisors a call for more details.
Our Cranleigh site has an extremely limited number of parking spaces available, so we ask you to please only arrive at your scheduled time or call ahead to ask the parking availability.
We are open weekdays between 8am and 5:30pm (5pm at our Gatwick site).
No, we are only open weekdays between 8am and 5:30pm (5pm at our Gatwick site).
No, we are only open weekdays between 8am and 5:30pm (5pm at our Gatwick site).
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